How to Install a Kitchen Sink
It is definitely possible to install a kitchen sink yourself, but you’ll need to be well-prepared. This step-by-step guide will help.
by Jefferson Kolle Updated 10/03/2024
Person holding a new faucet above a kitchen sink.
Project details
Skill
3 out of 5 Moderate Careful layout of the sink is crucial, but the plumbing hookup is rather straightforward.
Cost
$500 to $1,500, depending on the size and type of sink
Estimated Time
4 to 6 hours
Installing a new, high-quality sink can revitalize your kitchen’s look. It’s definitely possible to complete this project on your own, but you’ll need to make sure you’re well-prepared. Our step-by-step guide will walk you through the process, from the tools and materials you’ll need to the regular maintenance that will keep your new sink working properly.
Kitchen Sink Installation Tools and Materials
Below are the tools and materials needed for your kitchen sink installation.
Tools & Materials
Tubing cutter
Drill/driver
Screwdriver
Mechanic’s pliers
Adjustable wrench
Tape measure
Utility knife
Straight edge
9 Steps To Install a Kitchen Sink
The instructions below assume you’re beginning with a blank slate. If you only need to replace an existing sink, you can remove the old sink and jump straight to step four.
Begin by marking the counter’s back edge to center the sink within its cabinet. If your sink has a template, align it with this mark, placing its back edge one-and-one-half inches from and parallel to the counter. Trace around it to create your outline.
If your sink doesn’t have a template, you can use two-inch tape to outline the sink location. Mark the center of the sink on its back lip. Adjust the sink to leave a one-and-a-half-inch gap between its back edge and the backsplash. Make sure the sink is parallel to the counter’s edge. Trace around the sink and then remove it.
Step 2: Mark the Cut Lines
To mark the cut lines, measure the width of the sink lip and subtract 1/8 inch. Then, using this measurement, mark the inside of the sink outline. Connect these marks with a straightedge to create your cut lines. Round off the corners by hand to match the radius of the sink’s corners.
Step 3: Cut the Sink Opening with a Jigsaw
Use a spade bit slightly wider than the jigsaw blade (a half-inch bit is usually sufficient) and drill a hole inside the radius at each corner of the cut-out lines. Lay a scrap of wood a few inches longer than the cutout across the sink area. Screw through the scrap and into the cutout waste to prevent it from falling or binding the saw blade.
Insert the jigsaw blade into one of the drilled holes and carefully cut along your marked lines.
Complete the cuts on all sides and remove the cutout piece. Test-fit the sink and trim the opening if necessary.
Step 4: Install the Faucet and Sink Components
Set the sink upside down on a padded surface to protect it. Feed the faucet’s supply tubing and tailpiece through the gasket and up through the hole(s) in the sink. Secure the faucet by screwing on the mounting nuts and washers from underneath. Ensure the faucet can swing in a full arc across the sink before fully tightening the mounting nuts.
Step 5: Secure the Strainer and Drain
Roll a thick bead of plumber’s putty under the strainer’s lip. Push the strainer up through the sink’s drain hole. From underneath, slip on the gasket, washer, and housing (if included). Apply pipe-joint compound to the exposed threads. Thread the locknut onto the strainer by hand, then tighten with pliers while holding the strainer in place. Attach the sink-drain tailpiece to the strainer using the gasket and slip nut.
Step 6: Set the Sink and Connect the Water Supply
Clean the countertop area around the cut-out thoroughly. With the sink still upside down, apply a continuous bead of silicone caulk around the underside of the sink’s lip. Keep the bead even and without gaps to create a watertight seal.
Gently lower the sink into the cut-out, aligning it properly. Press down firmly to set the sink into the sealant. Check that the front of the sink is parallel to the front edge of the countertop.
If your sink model requires mounting clips, install them now according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Wipe away any excess caulk that squeezes out with a damp cloth. Allow the sealant to cure according to the manufacturer’s instructions before proceeding with plumbing connections.
After it is set, attach flexible supply lines to the faucet tailpieces. Connect the faucet to shut-off valves using acorn-head supply tubes or braided stainless steel hoses. Tighten all connections with an adjustable wrench, but be careful not to overtighten. If your faucet has a separate sprayer, attach its hose to the faucet’s threaded tailpiece.
Step 7: Install the Drain Pipes
The trickiest part of installing a new sink and faucet is connecting the sink’s drain—the pieces between the sink’s tailpiece and the waste line. Always start at the sink tailpiece and work down.
Assemble the trap adapter onto the sink-drain tailpiece. Cut and dry-fit lengths of PVC pipe to connect the trap adapter to the P-trap and the drain elbow to the waste line. Adjust the trap or slide it on the tailpiece to fine-tune the pipes’ lengths and alignment. Once everything fits correctly, disassemble the pieces.
Clean the cut ends with a utility knife and apply PVC primer to all connecting parts. Apply PVC cement to both ends being joined and immediately push the pieces together, holding for 30 seconds. Reassemble all threaded connections, tightening them by hand.
Step 8: Connect the Dishwasher Drain
If you want to connect your dishwasher, locate the dishwasher drain connection on the sink’s tailpiece or garbage disposal. Attach the dishwasher drain hose to this connection. Secure the hose with a hose clamp, tightening it with a screwdriver. Ensure that the hose has a high loop or is connected to the underside of the countertop to prevent backflow.
Step 9: Test for Leaks
Remove the aerator from the faucet to prevent it from clogging with debris. Turn on the water supply valves slowly. Run the water at full blast and observe all connections along the supply and drain lines. If you notice any leaks, tighten the connections carefully, making one-eighth turns until the leak stops.
Fill the sink with water to check for leaks around the drain and to ensure proper drainage. Run the garbage disposal (if installed) to check for leaks and proper operation.
Make sure the sink’s front edge is parallel to the counter’s edge. Fill the sink with water to weigh it down and hold it tight overnight as the caulk sets.
DIY vs. Professional Installation of a Kitchen Sink
Deciding whether to install your kitchen sink yourself or hire a professional will depend on your skills, time, and budget. If you choose to install your kitchen sink yourself, you’ll save on labor costs. You’ll also have more flexibility in completing the project rather than relying on a professional’s availability.
However, DIY installations carry risks, particularly for those inexperienced with plumbing work. Mistakes can lead to leaks or damage, and the process can be time-consuming, especially for beginners. You may also need to invest in specialized tools to complete the plumbing installation for a new sink, which will increase project costs.
We recommend choosing a professional installation if you lack plumbing experience or the job requires significant modifications to existing plumbing. Professional plumbers will complete the installation in less time and can handle complex installations such as garbage disposal or water filtration additions. Request quotes from multiple plumbing professionals to find the best pricing.
Maintaining Your Newly Installed Kitchen Sink
Follow these simple maintenance steps to ensure your sink remains in excellent condition and to extend its lifespan:
- Avoid harsh chemicals that can damage the sink’s finish
- Clean regularly with mild soap and water
- Clean the aerator every few months to maintain good water flow
- Periodically check under the sink for signs of leaks
- Use a sink grid to protect the bottom from scratches
Our Conclusion
Transforming your kitchen with a new sink is a rewarding project that can elevate both function and style. Skilled DIY enthusiasts can often handle this project on their own, but many homeowners may prefer professional assistance. Consider hiring a licensed plumber if you’re unsure about your abilities, lack the necessary tools, or need a complex installation involving significant plumbing modifications. Whether you opt for DIY or professional installation, a new kitchen sink is a valuable investment that will improve your daily life and potentially increase your home’s value.
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How to Install a Kitchen Sink in 10 Easy Steps
It is possible to install a kitchen sink without destroying your countertop, and a DIYer with average skills can complete the replacement in about 4 hours.
Updated Sep 28, 2021 10:06 AM EDT
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Installing a new kitchen sink is an excellent way to update the look of an outdated kitchen. While so many elements in kitchen design have remained common throughout the decades, others have lost their luster. For example, popular cabinets still have raised panels, many countertops are still made of plastic laminate, and tile is still a preferred surface for backsplashes and floors. But an ugly steel band running around an almond- or avocado-color sink? That says ’80s faster than big hair.
Unfortunately, it’s not so easy to replace an old sink (and its supporting hudee ring) without destroying your countertop, but a do-it-yourselfer with average skills can complete the replacement in about 4 hours. By following the guide below, you can learn how to install a kitchen sink like a pro. As with any plumbing job, begin early in the day. If something takes longer than expected, you may still be able to finish by dinnertime.
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Kitchen Sink Installation in 10 Easy Steps
The toughest part of installing a new kitchen sink is making the connection between the drain pipe and the sink drain. Aligning the tailpiece that extends from the drain and the P trap with the drain pipe coming out of the wall just below the sink can take a bit of trial and error. Unless you happen to be replacing the old one with an identical model, the alignment won’t be the same with the new sink.
Avoid any problems with this connection (and additional trips back to the home improvement store) by planning ahead. Purchase a trap adapter that will allow you to swivel the P trap on the tailpiece to align it with the drain pipe. Also, buy a section of 1 1/2-inch schedule 40 PVC pipe that you can cut to size to make the connection between the P trap and the sink’s tailpipe.
Tools & Materials
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STEP 1: Buy a sink that will fit the existing opening.
It’s easiest to buy a sink that fits inside the existing countertop opening. While you can install a sink that’s slightly bigger than the opening, it may be difficult to enlarge the hole.
Make sure you have the rest of the supplies you’ll need and prepare everything so it’s ready to use. If you’re replacing a cast-iron sink, be sure to have some extra muscle on hand to help manage the weight and enough support in the countertop for the extra weight.
STEP 2: Clear out the sink cabinet and crawl in there with a flashlight.
Locate the clips that secure the sink and its rim to the countertop. Remove them and disconnect the supply and drain plumbing.
STEP 3: With your helper holding the sink from above, push up on the old sink from underneath.
You may have to run a putty knife around the perimeter to loosen the old caulk seal. After the old sink is removed, test-fit the new one.
STEP 4: Prepare the new sink by installing the faucet according to the manufacturer’s directions.
Two common mistakes with a kitchen sink install are forgetting to clean the new sink thoroughly before installing and forgetting to install the new faucet before installing the new sink.
Factory-fresh stainless steel sinks smell awful, so it’s best to scrub them down outdoors. And it’s a lot easier to install the faucet before you install the sink, for at this stage, the mounting nuts are more accessible. While you’re installing the faucet, install all of the accessories, including the sprayer and detergent dispenser mounts.
STEP 5: When installing the faucet and sprayer bases, apply a ribbon of plumber’s putty first.
Before the faucet and sprayer are ready to be installed, they need plumber’s putty to keep the connection water-tight. It’s easier to work with plumber’s putty after warming it up with your hands. Roll the putty to form a rope shape and then press the putty around the faucet and sprayer bases.
STEP 6: Apply caulk under the sink rim and seat it in the opening.
Make sure the counter surface around the sink hole is clean and free of any dust. Then, run a bead of caulk around the hole about a1/2-inch away from the opening using a caulk gun. Make sure to use a caulk that inhibits the growth of mold and bacteria.
Once the sink is in place, run a bead of caulk around the edge between the countertop and the sink. The caulk will hold the sink in place and create a watertight barrier that prevents moisture on the counter from leaking between the sink and the counter. Finally, attach any clips holding the sink in place.
STEP 7: Install the drain and tailpipe, seating it in caulk and using the supplied gasket and nut.
Run a bead of caulk around the rim of the basket strainer, then place it into the drain hole in the sink.
Push the gasket over the threaded part of the drain under the sink, then screw the nut on and tighten it with a sink drain wrench or channel lock pliers. Clean off any excess caulk that squeezes out from the basket drainer into the sink.
STEP 8: Install the tailpiece and connect it to the drain.
Push the tailpiece into the sink drain, making sure to position the tailpiece’s gasket so the angled end is facing upward. Handscrew the tailpiece nut onto the threaded end of the sink drain pipe.
Cut the piece of schedule 40 PVC pipe so that the tailpiece lines up with the drain pipe. Attach the pipe to the tailpiece. Connect the P trap to the tailpiece and the drain pipe. Once all the connections are made, tighten each nut with locking pliers.
STEP 9: Attach the supply hoses to the supply lines.
Reattach the supply lines extending from the faucet to the valves under the sink using a crescent wrench. If using flexible supply hoses (recommended), don’t reuse the old gaskets. The rubber gasket that seals the connection may have hardened over the years and may not seat properly to the new faucet’s tailpiece.
STEP 10: Turn on the water and run it for several minutes.
Check for leaks at all connections, especially at the tubing, around the drain, and around the trap.
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Pro Tips for Kitchen Sink Installation
While installing a new kitchen sink is not a complicated task, there are few tips to keep in mind that make the process go more smoothly and ensure you don’t have to deal with problems later.
Many newbies learning how to install a new kitchen sink will often install the sink before the faucet. Save yourself a headache and install the faucet when the sink is out and the faucet’s nuts are much more accessible.
Make sure all the old caulk is cleaned off of the countertop before installing a new sink. Any caulk or putty that’s left behind prevents the sink from sitting flush to the countertop, creating tiny gaps that water can pass through.
Many people use plumber’s putty instead to seal the connections between the drain basket and sink and the sink and countertop. Plumber’s putty dries out over time, allowing water to leak between these seams and cause damage. Use caulk, which won’t dry out.
Working on plumbing often releases sediment in the pipes, clogging your new faucet. Flush this sediment by purging the lines into a bucket before attaching them to the faucet.
Once the sink is installed, place a paper towel under the drain pipe and leave it there for a few days. Check it daily for signs of moisture to make sure there are no leaks coming from the newly installed drain.
- Install the new faucet before installing the sink.
- Clean off any old caulk to make sure the new sink sits properly.
- Use caulk instead of the plumber’s putty to seal the sink and drain.
- Flush the supply lines to clear any sediment.
- Use a paper towel to check for leaks.
Expected Costs When Installing a New Kitchen Sink
When estimating the cost of your new kitchen sink installation, you need to factor in not only the cost of the sink and faucet but also the supplies. (Pro tip: Buying a prepackaged sink and faucet combination can save you about $100 over purchasing them separately.) Different types of sinks range in price based on the material type. Expect to pay about $8 to $12 for a new 1 1/2-inch PVC P-trap and about $4 for a length of schedule 40 PVC pipe to make your connections.
While it is possible to reuse the supply lines for your faucet, it’s a good idea to replace them to maximize flow rate and minimize the chances of a leak. Expect to pay about $15 for a set of new supply lines. You’ll also need caulk, which costs about $7 a tube, to attach and seal the sink to the countertop and install the drain basket. Overall, expect to spend about $30 in supplies to install your new faucet and sink.
Final Thoughts
While many people call a plumber to complete the installation of a new sink, installing a sink can be completed in a couple of hours with just a few basic tools and supplies, saving you hundreds of dollars. Put your checkbook away, strap on a tool belt and knock out this sink installation on your own with our guide detailing how to change a kitchen sink.
FAQs About How to Install a Kitchen Sink
If you still have questions about how to install a sink, this section may help. Below are answers to some of the most popular questions asked about installing kitchen sinks. For more specific questions about a particular sink, reach out to the sink’s manufacturer.
Q. Do you need a plumber to install a kitchen sink?
No. Installing a kitchen sink is something most DIYers can handle with basic tools and a few supplies. More complicated installations that involve relocating plumbing may require a plumber’s expertise.
Q. Can I install a deeper kitchen sink?
You can install a deeper kitchen sink, but keep in mind that International Building Code specifies that you need at least a 1/4-inch drop from the sink tailpiece to the drain. If your deeper kitchen sink, like a farmhouse style, doesn’t allow for this, you’ll need to relocate the drainpipe and that’s a job for a plumber.
Q. What is the best depth for a kitchen sink?
Most kitchen sinks range between 8 and 10 inches in depth. While a deeper sink may make it easier to soak (and pile up) dishes, it can make it harder for shorter family members to use.
Q. How do you install a kitchen sink with a new countertop?
If you’re installing a kitchen sink with a new countertop, you’ll need to cut a hole in the countertop to accommodate the sink. Luckily, most sinks come with a paper template that you can tape onto the counter to use as a cutting guide. Trace the shape using the paper then use a drill with a 3/8-inch bit and drill a hole in each corner. Use a jigsaw to drill along the line from corner to corner.
Q: Are kitchen double sinks outdated?
Although some people still like double sinks, they were designed for a time when few people had dishwashers. The double sink’s design allowed people to both soak and rinse dishes in the sink. Now that most homes have dishwashers, single sinks are more popular.
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Tony Carrick
Contributing Writer
Tony Carrick has contributed to BobVila.com since 2020. He writes how-to articles and product reviews in the areas of lawn and garden, home maintenance, home improvement, auto maintenance, housewares, and technology.
Joe Provey
Contributing Writer
Joe Provey is an expert on all things home and garden. His work has appeared in many national magazines, including Popular Mechanics, House Beautiful, Better Homes & Gardens, and Fine Homebuilding. Mr. Provey has also written more than dozen books, including Convert Your Home to Solar Energy and 1001 Ideas for Kitchen Organization. Other titles include Outdoor Kitchens, Easy Closets, Green-up Your Cleanup, and Design Ideas for Flooring.
Currently, Mr. Provey serves as the president of Home & Garden Editorial Services (HGES), a company that produces books for publishers in the home and garden category. In the past, he has been chief editor to several national home improvement magazines, including The Family Handyman, Mechanix Illustrated, and Practical Homeowner.
Joe lives in Bridgeport, Connecticut, with his wife MaryAnn, where they have seven children and four grandchildren between them.
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